May, 2016

Passage Note #85 - Goodbye Marquesas!!!

Planting our pampelmousse tree in Taiohae with the help of Henri's son and friend

Planting our pampelmousse tree in Taiohae with the help of Henri's son and friend

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Taiohae, Nuku Hiva
Taiohae, Nuku Hiva

We say goodbye to Henri with Leslie and Eric of svKandu (who became a real part of the Taiohae community) and will be departing a few weeks after us.

Taiohae, Nuku Hiva
Taiohae, Nuku Hiva

We say goodbye to Henri with Leslie and Eric of svKandu (who became a real part of the Taiohae community) and will be departing a few weeks after us.

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“Enana au i oto otou ho’upo”  

 

Following November on the east coast of the U.S. for our family Thanksgiving tradition and our return to Hiva Oa via Tahiti for the much anticipated Matava’a Marquesan Cultural Festival in December, it was time for the holidays in the tropical heat.  The 2016 austral summer was in full swing.  While we waited out the cyclone season this El Niño year in the Marquesas, we revisited several of the islands and many of our friends in the subsequent 5 months.  Couldn’t think of a better way to wait for the weather to settle until it was safe to sail to the neighboring archipelago of the Tuamotu Islands!

After nearly one year in the wonderful Marquesas, we are both very sad to leave these beautiful islands with their beautiful people......we leave but a part of us remains.  In Taiohae, Nuku Hiva, Henri helped us plant a pampelmousse tree so one day we hope to return and harvest the fruit.  We also became sponsors of the Children’s Va’a (outrigger canoe) program for the youngest kids who needed pint-sized canoes, paddles, and life jackets.  This is their national sport so the younger they start, the better chance the Marquesas will have to excel in Polynesian competitions.  Besides fostering pride, it will promote better health through increased exercise.  We sealed the deal over dinner at Philippe and Cecilia's home with svKandu.  Six months later, the project was put in place  with the purchase of two new va'a and all the necessary equipment.  The smiling faces of the children say it all.  We are particularly proud to "pay it forward" with this sponsorship.  Watch the special videos in the Media section of the website.  One is the traditional baptism of the va'a and a second is a "thank you" performance for us.

 

These are threads to keep us connected to a place and people we have grown to love.  So Linda bids farewell to our local friends in their own Marquesan language (which she speaks better than French):

 

“Enana au i oto otou ho’upo”  (“I am Marquesan in my heart”)

“Koutau Nui” ("Thank you!")

“Apei”!  (Goodbye!”)

 

                                                                 ___________________

Outriggers - the national sport
Outriggers - the national sport

We became sponsors of a new program in Nuku Hiva for the very young children to start paddling early.

Outriggers - the national sport
Outriggers - the national sport

We became sponsors of a new program in Nuku Hiva for the very young children to start paddling early.

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Children's Va'a School, 2016
Children's Va'a School, 2016

Our sponsorship of this program in Nuku Hiva was a great source of pride to us. The kids' smiling faces say it all!

Children's Va'a School, 2016
Children's Va'a School, 2016

Our sponsorship of this program in Nuku Hiva was a great source of pride to us. The kids' smiling faces say it all!

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What follows are a few visual mementos of our island reprise and experiences during our last five months in the Marquesas Islands.

HIVA OA 

Holidays and lots of socializing!!   An excursion to Taaoa - a sacred site that was used as a dance venue during the Matava'a Festival.  Chuck replaced some rigging wires and installed our new windvane rudder.  Friday night dinners at the roulotte (food truck) on the quay.  Watching the children dance at the school festival (Kermesse). Cool showers at the public facility on hot afternoons.  Internet at  Hiva Oa Pearl Lodge.

Christmas: Under the Polynesian Mistletoe

Christmas: Under the Polynesian Mistletoe

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Dinghy raft-up
Dinghy raft-up

Oh la la!! Make sure the French cruisers come with their apple tarts!!

Dinghy raft-up
Dinghy raft-up

Oh la la!! Make sure the French cruisers come with their apple tarts!!

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Ta'a oa sacred site
Ta'a oa sacred site

A venue for dance presentations during the Matava'a Festival

Ta'a oa sacred site
Ta'a oa sacred site

A venue for dance presentations during the Matava'a Festival

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Christmas on svMaluhia
Christmas on svMaluhia

Christmas on svMaluhia
Christmas on svMaluhia

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Jacaranda Man
Jacaranda Man

Cape courtesy of Nicole on svNaoma

Jacaranda Man
Jacaranda Man

Cape courtesy of Nicole on svNaoma

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Cruising life in Atuona
Cruising life in Atuona

This is where we went for internet

Cruising life in Atuona
Cruising life in Atuona

This is where we went for internet

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Cruising life in Atuona
Cruising life in Atuona

Taking a shower of cool clean river water was great in those hot summer afternoons of Hiva Oa!

Cruising life in Atuona
Cruising life in Atuona

Taking a shower of cool clean river water was great in those hot summer afternoons of Hiva Oa!

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Cruising life in Atuona
Cruising life in Atuona

We occasionally hung out at the Hiva Oa Pearl Lodge for a luxurious day of swimming, lunch, and internet. Thanks Jean Jacques and the gang!

Cruising life in Atuona
Cruising life in Atuona

We occasionally hung out at the Hiva Oa Pearl Lodge for a luxurious day of swimming, lunch, and internet. Thanks Jean Jacques and the gang!

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Atuona, Hiva Oa
Atuona, Hiva Oa

School festival at St. Anne's (Kermesse)....the school was around when Paul Gauguin lived in Atuona

Atuona, Hiva Oa
Atuona, Hiva Oa

School festival at St. Anne's (Kermesse)....the school was around when Paul Gauguin lived in Atuona

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School festival (Kermesse)

School festival (Kermesse)

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TAHUATA 

Protestant Church dedication in Vaitahu on Linda's Birthday. Visits with Cyril and Hemana in Hapitoni.  Lots more snorkeling.  Anchoring at Hanemenino.  Return to Hanamoenoa (which we nicknamed "Green Flash Bay" since there was a green flash almost every sunset) and visits with Steven.

Vaitahu, Tahuata
Vaitahu, Tahuata

The reopening of the small Protestant church (most Marquesans are Catholic) coincided with Linda's birthday so the community festivities felt almost like a personal celebration! Linda drummed with the women musicians (Tahuata is the only island where the women play the drums).

Vaitahu, Tahuata
Vaitahu, Tahuata

The reopening of the small Protestant church (most Marquesans are Catholic) coincided with Linda's birthday so the community festivities felt almost like a personal celebration! Linda drummed with the women musicians (Tahuata is the only island where the women play the drums).

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Vaitahu, Tahuata
Vaitahu, Tahuata

Big wooden bowls of food cooked in a traditional oven (umu) were brought in for the rededication celebration of the Protestant Church

Vaitahu, Tahuata
Vaitahu, Tahuata

Big wooden bowls of food cooked in a traditional oven (umu) were brought in for the rededication celebration of the Protestant Church

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Vaitahu, Tahuata
Vaitahu, Tahuata

Women giving flowers to visitors on Valentine's Day

Vaitahu, Tahuata
Vaitahu, Tahuata

Women giving flowers to visitors on Valentine's Day

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Vaitahu rainbow
Vaitahu rainbow

Vaitahu rainbow
Vaitahu rainbow

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Hana Te Fau, Tahuata
Hana Te Fau, Tahuata

A beautiful anchorage near Hapitoni where dolphins often swim.

Hana Te Fau, Tahuata
Hana Te Fau, Tahuata

A beautiful anchorage near Hapitoni where dolphins often swim.

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Hapitoni, Tahuata
Hapitoni, Tahuata

Lunch with Cyril, the expert carver, and Hemana at their home. Hemana taught Linda how to make breadfruit fritters.

Hapitoni, Tahuata
Hapitoni, Tahuata

Lunch with Cyril, the expert carver, and Hemana at their home. Hemana taught Linda how to make breadfruit fritters.

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Behold the Mighty Kraken!
Behold the Mighty Kraken!

Pelagic baby octopus living on our anchor chain

Behold the Mighty Kraken!
Behold the Mighty Kraken!

Pelagic baby octopus living on our anchor chain

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Hana Te Fau, Tahuata
Hana Te Fau, Tahuata

Hana Te Fau, Tahuata
Hana Te Fau, Tahuata

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Juvenile trumpetfish
Juvenile trumpetfish

Hanging around the anchor chain with our keel in the background

Juvenile trumpetfish
Juvenile trumpetfish

Hanging around the anchor chain with our keel in the background

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Hana Te Fau, Tahuata
Hana Te Fau, Tahuata

A dolphin escort from Vaitahu to Hana Te Fau

Hana Te Fau, Tahuata
Hana Te Fau, Tahuata

A dolphin escort from Vaitahu to Hana Te Fau

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Wahoo!
Wahoo!

Wahoo!
Wahoo!

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Hanemenino Bay, Tahuata
Hanemenino Bay, Tahuata

Hiva Oa in the background

Hanemenino Bay, Tahuata
Hanemenino Bay, Tahuata

Hiva Oa in the background

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UA POU

Car tour with Jerome to see the west side of the island.  Visit to say goodbye to Marguerite and Keith.  

Ua Pou
Ua Pou

Ua Pou
Ua Pou

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Ua Pou
Ua Pou

Ua Pou
Ua Pou

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Hakahetau, Ua Pou
Hakahetau, Ua Pou

We ate a gourmet lunch prepared by master chef Tipiero at his restaurant

Hakahetau, Ua Pou
Hakahetau, Ua Pou

We ate a gourmet lunch prepared by master chef Tipiero at his restaurant

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NUKU HIVA

Good times at Henri's cafe on the quay.  Dinners with Deborah Kimitete and Philippe and Cecilia.  Sponsorship of the Children's Va'a program.  Linda's Studio Maluhia.

Taiohae, Nuku Hiva
Taiohae, Nuku Hiva

The quay with Henri's cafe

Taiohae, Nuku Hiva
Taiohae, Nuku Hiva

The quay with Henri's cafe

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Taiohae, Nuku Hiva
Taiohae, Nuku Hiva

Every afternoon va'a glided past Jacaranda's stern as the paddlers practiced.

Taiohae, Nuku Hiva
Taiohae, Nuku Hiva

Every afternoon va'a glided past Jacaranda's stern as the paddlers practiced.

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Tall ship in Taiohae Bay
Tall ship in Taiohae Bay

Moetai looking at this square rigger is a poignant sight - what did the original Marquesans think when the European explorers arrived in these strange vessels?

Tall ship in Taiohae Bay
Tall ship in Taiohae Bay

Moetai looking at this square rigger is a poignant sight - what did the original Marquesans think when the European explorers arrived in these strange vessels?

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Studio Maluhia
Studio Maluhia

When Dave and Kim went to the US for 2 weeks, we watched their boat and they let Linda use Maluhia as an art studio. A lot of creativity going on here in the artistic mess of their transformed salon

Studio Maluhia
Studio Maluhia

When Dave and Kim went to the US for 2 weeks, we watched their boat and they let Linda use Maluhia as an art studio. A lot of creativity going on here in the artistic mess of their transformed salon

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Moorish Idol Fabric Mosaic (WIP) resulting from Linda's Studio Maluhia

Moorish Idol Fabric Mosaic (WIP) resulting from Linda's Studio Maluhia

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TAHITI IN TRANSIT

Returning from our US family visit in December, we overnighted in Papeete, Tahiti and went to see a wonderful annual dance competition with our visa agent's aunt, Corinne.

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FAREWELL - "APEI"

 

One of our last Marquesan sunsets in Hanamoenoa Bay (we nicknamed it "Green Flash Bay" ) where we made landfall almost one year earlier. 

Jacaranda at Hanamoenoa Bay
Jacaranda at Hanamoenoa Bay

(Photo by Lynn Dorning of svAmurula)

Jacaranda at Hanamoenoa Bay
Jacaranda at Hanamoenoa Bay

(Photo by Lynn Dorning of svAmurula)

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MORE PHOTOS: In the "Photo Gallery" for Passage Note #85

                            Next:  Off to new adventures in the Tuamotus!!

86 - Tuamotus.jpg
86 - Tuamotus.jpg

86 - Tuamotus.jpg
86 - Tuamotus.jpg

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